The rubberized tail straps on the Black Diamond skins used to crack and break quite often after heavy use, but it seems like Black Diamond has changed the material slightly so that they are now more durable. The tail system features a simple camming system that slides on a piece of strong, rubberized material.
Unfortunately, on my third day using the Minimist skins, the cam device for the tail somehow fell apart. On my last run of the day, I was able to just skin up without the tail hook, but especially if the glue loses tackiness over time, I would prefer the security of having a tail hook. I am unimpressed by how easily the G3 Minimist system fell apart after minimal use, though G3 did say that this issue should be resolved with the currently available Minimist skins our pair was one of the first batches and it would definitely be covered under their warranty.
But, as usual, the lighter and more minimal you go, you typically tend to sacrifice some durability. The Black Diamond UltraLite system also works quite well. The tip fits a wide variety of skis but has the durability concerns mentioned above. I prefer to use the tail hook in a slightly different manner than intended, wherein I snap them in place so that the rubbery part is sandwiched between the ski and the metal hook.
I find that this is more secure, especially for more rounded tail shapes. As I mentioned above, I think the G3 Minimist tip system is quite good and seems very durable and versatile. The obvious benefit of thin, supple skins is the weight savings and packability.
To me, weight is very important but so is packability. Based on my limited time with them, it seems like this works quite well and is a great solution to the problem.
The Pomoca Race Pro 2. This is also aided by the wider tip connection of the Pomoca system. This seems much less pronounced on the stiffer, thicker, heavier, less supple Black Diamond Ascension.
I do really love how thin, packable, and lightweight the Black Diamond UltraLite Mix is, and for me, this outweighs any snow creep issues. While, for the reasons we noted above, skin weight is difficult to quantify, the Pomoca Race Pro 2. Paul : Black Diamond continues to include what is basically a disposable letter opener for cutting their skins.
That said, G3 and Pomoca include much better skin-cutting tools that just make the whole process easier since they automatically trim off the ski material over the ski edges.
Paul : The Pomoca Race Pro 2. I also liked the Pomoca Climb Pro S-Glide but, to me, any small gains in durability and grip of the Climb Pro are usurped by the lower weight and better glide of the Race Pro 2. The Black Diamond UltraLite Mix has long been a favorite of mine due to its glide, suppleness, and weight. I do agree with Paul in that the Race Pro 2. But those skins also tend to be more affordable and durable, so they still warrant strong consideration from those on a budget or those new to backcountry touring.
Just buy Pomoca skins. I think one aspect was missed in this review: the choice to fit skins to the widest or narrowest part of the ski. Put differently: to choose a skin width matching the ski waist and not trim it, or to choose a skin width matching the ski tip width and trim the whole profile. Especially on wide skis I go for the narrow option without trimming. Thanks for the review, skins are indeed often overlooked. After many years on G3 nylon skins I switched to Colltex mohair and have never looked back.
I love the efficiency of smoothly gliding skins. The chaos and terror of sliding backwards can ruin a fine day for someone new to the sport.
Poor tip and tail hardware can certainly ruin a nice skin. I had to replace my Coltex tail attachment with the G3 aftermarket tails. The original tail clip kept sliding off my twin tip skis.
Thankfully the modification has been bombproof since. I do have one question though. Then I found out that there will be a separate version of that ski that comes with Pomoca Free Pro 2. My apologies for being so long winded and thanks in advance. But in our initial experience, it seems like it falls between the Pomoca Race Pro 2. Great info. Hundreds of thousands of feet skinned in all conditions.
So reliable. I barely use skin wax on them in spring. Skin failure can ruin your day, or much worse. This is a very nice guide, although not really relevant to what I ski. Almost all of my touring is spring west coast after the lifts close. So my question is what is the best grippy skin on the market for steep and icy? But in our experience, most nylon skins are pretty similar overall in terms of grip, and the BD Ascension and BSMP Nylon also glide a tiny bit better than some other nylon skins.
Question seems a bit dubious. Ski crampons are not used without skins, nor are they slower well I guess if you rip skins when you put on your ski crampons, that certainly will be slower. My point is that grippier skins are not substitutes for ski or boot crampons in any scenario, nor vice versa. They exist because its cheap to make them that way and you can sell them as a budget alternative. Inferior product no glide but lower price.
It makes complete market sense and explains why the worst backers and worst glues all tend to be combined. Or you can put some better glue on it or not and market it as extreme grip for extreme skin tracks…. No pro athletes are reaching for inferior skins because their touring routes require more grip. They are for tight budgets, and will work pretty well for complete beginners. Beyond that go for a mix, and for advanced users who understand the target conditions and use cases, full mohair.
Never had that happen with any other skin. Otherwise, excellent review and I really like the overall emphasis on glide with the minimal required grip as opposed to moar grip. Detailed review! I did break the plastic tail clip on a very cold day that I tried to force over the tail. While this may not sound like the end of the world, it makes a huge difference.
In fact, the glide of your skin is just as important as the range of motion of your boot or the weight of you ski when it comes to efficiency on the skin track.
Nylon skins are also heavier and less packable. So even though these skins will grip on the steepest of skin tracks, you will be kicking yourself when the guy on a mohair mix skin sets a lower grade uptrack, eventually catches up to you and then has the energy to get another lap in. So unless you're a splitboarder who needs lots of grip, or you're looking to get your kid into a setup on the cheap, we do not recommend going with a full Nylon skin.
This gets you the best of both worlds. They glide much better than pure Nylon but still grip well and pack up reasonably small. They also shed water better than pure mohair.
They are preferred for almost all setups with the exception of race skis or light and fast powder boards. Our personal favorite in this category is the Pomoca Pro-S Glide. The slickest skin plush out there. Every race setup should be sporting pure mohair skins. Not only do these options offer the the best glide capabilities but they are the lightest and most packable option. In addition to the spandex clad race crowd, we have started to see pure mohair skins used in wider widths for fat powder specific skis.
The idea behind this trend is that fat skis have more surface area which translates to more grip. Powder boards also tour during mid winter when the snow is soft and grippy. Check out our this article to learn more about that option. Mohair is less durable than nylon and also soaks up more moisture, so they are not recommended for spring touring or ski mountaineering where wet snow and rocks prevail.
In this category, we love the Pomoca Race Pro 2. If you've read this far or you've ever stopped by one of our shops to chat about skins, you'll know that Cripple Creek has a particular affinity for Swiss made Pomoca skins. We love these skins for their packability and ease of setup, but the one feature that puts them above any other skin manufacturer is the quality of their glue.
Pomoca glue keeps your skins firmly attached to the bottom of your skis all day long, but remove with ease when it comes time to transition at the top of your line. Most importantly, though, is that they don't leave and residue on the bottom of your skis. If you've ever been touring, you know how devastating it is have your run ruined by gloppy glue on the bottom of your skis.
Pomoca eliminates this problem. So if you're in the market for new skins, don't hesitate to spend the few extra bucks on some Pomoca skins. You'll be glad you did. For most touring applications, it is preferred to have a skin that covers the entire base of the ski leaving approximately 2mm of room on either side of the edge. This provides adequate grip while also allowing the ski to edge into the snow when side hilling. Note that full edge to edge coverage becomes less important with skis wider than mm underfoot.
The amount of surface area on these larger boards translates to more grip. When shopping for a skin with this coverage, it is first necessary to determine the width you would like to purchase. Our stores have a wide range of backcountry climbing skins, so if in doubt, visit us in store and get expert advice from our knowledgeable staff. Skins are now made from either nylon or mohair, or a mixture of the two. Traditionally they were made from seal skin. Climbing skins made from nylon are durable, require less upkeep, and provide the best uphill grip.
The advantage of mohair over nylon is the smoother glide; however, mohair wears quicker than nylon and, in a range of snow conditions, tends to have less grip overall. They can be harder to use than a single material skin, however once you learn the basic technique they work well in most conditions. Tips and tail hardware is available in different styles. While some skins include hardware that can fit to a variety of tips and tail shapes, others only include hardware that is designed to fit their own brand of skis.
For full coverage, find the widest part of your skis or splitboard - usually at the tip - then subtract mm. You want to cover all of the plastic base material on the base of your equipment, leaving the metal edges bare to give you maximum grip going uphill, but good edging downhill. Most skins are cut to a specific length, but you'll need to trim the sides to match your equipment.
Pre-cut skins will often have tip and tail hardware already installed, saving you some time. If not, you have to cut the skin to the proper length and attach either the tip or tail hardware before you trim the width. Cutting your own skins is easy and a great way to get a custom fit, but it does take time.
Always read the instructions before you begin. If you don't fancy giving it a go, most manufacturers offer pre-cut skins with hardware to match their own skis. Different tools are available for cutting the sides of skins; you can use straight edge razor blades or cutters.
If you end up with a poorly cut or wavy edge you can smooth it out by moving the skin over to a cutting board, or other clean, hard surface, and re-trimming it with a knife and metal straightedge. Hot waxing your skins, just like your skis, is the best way to improve glide and keep the snow from sticking to your skins.
In some conditions snow will always stick to your skins, such as when skiing through fresh powder into cooler, icier stuff. Storing your skins properly will add to their lifespan. Follow these simple tips for added longevity:. Consider ski crampons for icy and crusty conditions. Usually aluminium, ski crampons have teeth like a rake that will attach to your bindings or ski for added grip.
Crampons are specific to your equipment brand and must fit the width of your ski.
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